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description
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The starting point for this article is the observation that in fashion there is no estab
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lished form of criticism comparable to the art system or the literary system. The
intent of this article is to provide a critical sociological analysis of the relationship
between the fashion industry and fashion media and to trace the limits imposed on
fashion criticism by this mutual structural-economic-dependency. The article exam
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ines the socio-economic and cultural ties between the fashion industry and fashion
media since the nineteenth century to the present and investigates the consequences
of these ties for the development and limits of criticism in fashion journalism. The
article discusses the emergence of a discourse of normative constraint in digital
media and argues that the advent of digital fashion media led to an intensifica
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tion of the economic limitations to fashion criticism. By analysing the conditions
and limitations of criticism in the realm of fashion journalism, the article brings the
literature on fashion media into conversation with critical theory and the sociology
of critique.
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